The road narrows between old brick walls draped in wisteria. Poppies crowd the edges. Olive trees, lilacs, cherry blossoms, and tall cypress sentinels line the way as the fog holds everything in its arms this morning, soft and reluctant to let go.
The sun is trying. Beams push through the mist and land in dappled patches on the tree trunks, lighting small circles of gold against the gray. I’m driving slowly, not because of the fog, but because I don’t want this to end.
As I walked to my car this morning, I took one last breath of Tuscan air, scented with gardenias and burning olive wood, a smell I’ve come to love from the farmers who were already working before I was. My bags are packed. I’m ready to go.
That Peter, Paul, and Mary song is stuck in my head. You know the one. Especially the part about “I hate to go.”
Five Weeks Gone
Five weeks ago, I arrived in Florence alone, enrolled in a classical painting and drawing foundations course at the Florence Academy of Art. A program that scared me before I ever unpacked. Not a vacation. An adventure. The kind where you don’t know if you’ll survive it until you’re on the other side.
I survived it. Barely, some days.
Somewhere between the charcoal drawings at nine in the morning and the anatomy lectures at night, something shifted. Not just in how I see a face or render a shadow. Something deeper. The kind of shift that only happens when you’re quietly alone with yourself long enough to hear what you actually think.
The Lifeboat Bond
There’s a particular bond that forms among people who are struggling together. My fellow students and I weren’t tourists. We were in a lifeboat, all of us trying to figure out how to keep our heads above water through the hours, the lessons, the frustrations. We talked each other through it. Lunches. Jokes. Random stories between sessions.
I didn’t know I missed that kind of connection so much. I live in a virtual world now. My people are on Zoom. But there’s no substitute for a hallway conversation, a shared laugh over a bad drawing, the warmth of someone who understands exactly what you’re going through because they’re going through it too.
That’s not a small thing. I’d forgotten it was a thing at all.
What Teachers Know
Here’s what surprised me most about how they teach at the Florence Academy.
Not once, in five weeks, did an instructor walk up to my easel and say, “That arm is wrong. That eye is too high.” Not once.
Instead, they asked questions.
“How are you feeling about this? What feels right? What feels off?”
They were forcing self-evaluation. Because none of it works long-term if you need someone else to solve it for you. The goal isn’t a good painting. The goal is a painter who can see.
I added private Sunday lessons because I didn’t want to waste a single day. I attended 20 optional drawing sessions with live models. Anatomy lectures. Art history. Optional everything. I took all of it.
On the last day, during the final critique, four instructors told me they weren’t used to seeing a student push that hard, do that much, refuse to coast.
I nearly teared up.
What It Actually Costs
Not because of the compliment. Because of what it cost to earn it.
There were mornings I wanted to sleep in. Afternoons I was sure I was getting worse, not better. Evenings I questioned why a person at my stage of life was putting himself through something this uncomfortable when nobody was making him.
And that last part is the key phrase: when nobody was making me.
There’s a version of pushing through that’s easy to romanticize — the athlete grinding before the championship, the musician practicing before the big show. That kind of effort has an audience, even if it’s imaginary. You’re performing the discipline as much as you’re practicing it.
What’s harder, and rarer, is the work you do when the outcome is uncertain, when no one will ever know whether you showed up or didn’t, when quitting is not just available but entirely invisible. No one to disappoint. No one to impress. Just you and the easel and the choice.
That’s where character actually lives. Not in the heroic moments. In the quiet ones.
I pushed through anyway.
The Satisfaction Surprise
Here’s what I wasn’t prepared for: the satisfaction on the other side isn’t really about the result.
I’ve seen the drawings. They’re significantly better. But that’s not the thing.
The thing is knowing you didn’t quit when quitting was easy and completely available. That knowledge becomes something you carry forward. It changes how you see the next hard thing, and the one after that. Every time you’ve done it before, you’ve gotten a reference point. Evidence. Proof you’re the kind of person who stays.
That’s what compounds. Not the skill. The self-knowledge.
And here’s what I want you to sit with: Pushing through is not a skill for artists. It’s a skill for living.
Your Fog Moment
You’ve had a version of this. A moment where the thing in front of you was hard enough to walk away from, and you didn’t. You stayed. You endured the frustration, the self-doubt, the slow and ugly progress, and you came out the other side with something you couldn’t have gotten any other way.
That feeling is available to you again. Right now. In whatever you’ve been putting off because it’s hard and because no one is forcing you. There is a certain confidence that comes from powering through when no one is watching.
The fog is burning off. The sun is winning.
The question is whether you’ll be on the other side of something difficult by the time it does.
Eric Rhoads
PS: No Time for Jet Lag
I arrive home late tonight, probably around 3 a.m. Florence time, after nearly 24 hours of travel. There will be no easing back in.
Monday is a company board meeting. Tuesday I fly to Branson to host the Plein Air Convention for a week (and, yes, you can attend online from wherever you are). Then straight to the Adirondack Mountains for my annual Publisher’s Invitational artists’ retreat.
Which means this is the last quiet morning I’ll have for a while.
I’m not complaining. I love my work. But after five weeks of deep solitude and focused effort, coming home to a full calendar is its own kind of shock. The funny thing is, I probably got as much done here, after hours, handcuffed to nothing, as I do in a normal week at the office.
That’s worth thinking about.
Ah the Jet Plane song – yes . Your adventure makes me aware that it is time for an adventure – now the task is to decide, find and implement. Thanks for sharing.
That is a super-human effort you completed. It will encourage many people to push on just that bit harder I am sure.
love Sally
Wonderfully written, Eric.
I have reread it and nearly laughed out loud each time I read “… I was sure I was getting worse.”
I heard about this blog, in the James Gurney interview. I am intending to go “full-time” in about a year, poring over every PA podcast and taking notes.
Would love to hear more about your faith someday, somehow.
I hope PACE went exceedingly abundantly beyond all that you could ask or imagine.
@marvin.art.fish
Your letters written while you were in Florence were truly enchanting. I myself lived in Rome for eleven years and went to Florence several times. Italy is the country where art is everywhere. Its charm is mesmerising. Many thanks for those letters and the way you enable your reader to be part of your experience.
Art School is an experience you will carry with you for the rest of your life. I know that after graduating in 1967, I still think of what I did and did not do when there. The talent of my teachers still impress me. I made a living off of my training. I am greatful to have had the time there.
I am always inspired by your Sunday posts. The ones about Florence especially motivate me. There are so many great ideas and goals that excite me but I often put them off thinking it isn’t the right time or I can’t really do it right. You remind me that I’ve nothing to lose; that’s no one’s watching or judging. You give me the courage to try. I just really like how brave, yet humble you are. Thank you.
Sounds like you had a truly exceptional time, happy for you. Please share more of your art adventure with us. Thank you for all you do for the art world. You are awesome possum! Safe and fun travels wherever you go, you are not alone, we will follow.
Sorry to be pedantic, but ‘Leavin’ on a Jet Plane,’ is a John Denver song, written in 1966 … P,P & M did it in ’69 and is the most well known version … I was lucky enough to hear John sing it in 1967 in Minneapolis/St. Paul.
Eric, I am so glad that you are my friend. I was touched by this message and the focus that it took to compile your thoughts. I am happy for you that you were able to do something for yourself, you give so much here at home. I find my self pushing through my challenges and into character. I know what you mean by online friends and the difference between that and hallway chat. However, we do what is necessary for the moment. It seems like you got alot out of studying and engaging in it, I am glad that you did something to enrich your life. . Enjoy Plein AIr Live, have safe and timely travel, may the Lords bless and refresh you.
Thanks…I needed to hear this. I’ve been in a state of questioning everything recently. I had a very bad fall with multiple injuries. Everything hurts from head to knees. I’ve been wondering whether I’ll be able to get up the stairs to my studio anytime soon. My muddled brain is clearing and the pain is better. I’ve questioned whether I’ll be able to push through as well as why. But then I read this and I have an answer. Yes I will. The why is because I cannot imagine life without creating things, and getting better at creating. Lack of learning means you’re at a dead end.
Have a great day!
Thank you, Eric. I’m on a challenging journey just now and this “sharing” comes at just the right time in just the right words. Thank you so much.
Any chance we can see some of your work in progress from your Florence trip? Your schedule is insane. Do you have Superman energy? It doesn’t seem possible to do a good job at all you are involved in.
I’ve been looking online to see what you have taken. It seems that the intensive gives a person only 20 hours a week no matter how many weeks you choose. Is it possible to let us know what you took?
Impressive, Eric, thank you for sharing your journey and for all you do for the community of artists who follow your lead!